Denali National Park

Big destination #1 for Janelle’s visit, was Denali National Park. We headed here from Talkeetna to take advantage of the camping reservations I had made back in December. This is the ONLY reservation we had made in advance.

We made it!
This map will give you an idea of where we started this leg (Mat-Su RV Park in Talkeetna), where Denali National Park is, and their relation to Anchorage.

We arrived shortly after lunch time and wasted no time starting our explorations of the Park. First on the agenda was seeing the sled dog demonstration.

Sled Dogs

Denali NP has its own pack of sled dogs. They are used primarily in the winter to get around the park. Snowmobiles could also allow wintertime passage in the Park, but it as explained to us that “This special group of dogs is tasked with preserving unimpaired the natural and cultural resources and values of the national park system for the enjoyment, education, and inspiration of this and future generations.” Sled dogs do less damage to the environment!

The sled dogs are tethered to their dog houses. And most of their time seems to be spent on top of the dog houses.
A few dogs have their own kennels. Note this dog is leaning against the chain link door of this cage.
He’s no dummy, he does this so people can come up and scratch him through the fence!

There is a new litter of sled dog puppies at the NP, and they have their very own webcam. We got to see the puppies in person, but if you want to view them in real time, use this webcam link: https://www.nps.gov/dena/learn/photosmultimedia/webcams-pups.htm.

The puppies were all sleeping when we were there.
In the summer, the dogs are used for demos. Here they are hooking the dogs up to a “sled” on wheels. They were very anxious to go go go.
And go they did.

It was in interesting demo. The dogs are mutts, not pure bread huskies like you see in the Iditarod Race every year. The huskies are bred for speed. These dogs are bred for endurance.

The sign below into one of the Park buildings caught my attention.

Apparently there have been “incidents” of people accidentally setting off their bear spray in the buildings and on the buses. Oops!

Hiking

We were watching the weather closely. We knew we wanted to ride the “green bus” as far as it could go and we wanted good weather for that. Our first full day in Denali was cloudy and kind of miserable. We decided to use the day to drive ourselves out as far as we could go and do a couple of hikes.

Better bundle up. Can you tell which person lives in New Mexico (where it’s warm) and which person lives in Maine?
We were fortunate enough to see caribou on the Mountain Vista Trail.
Arctic Windflower was blooming everywhere.
We met this guy on the Savage River Loop Trail.. This is an Arctic Ground Squirrel that has obviously learned how to beg for food. He didn’t succeed with us.
We were fortunate enough to see Dall Sheep! Dall Sheep are the whole reason Denali become a National Park in the first place, to protect them.
It was mating season. These two guys were having a standoff.
The sheep weren’t the only ones climbing the sides of the slopes. Take a look at the left slope…about a 1/4 of the way up. That’s Janelle up there!

After two hikes, those of us of a certain age were feeling a tad tired. I did some googling and found the 49th State Brewing about 10 miles north of the Park in Healy.

This welcoming entrance begged us to come in.
What a cool place! Lots of outdoor seating and indoor dining. No, that is NOT Bus 142, but is sure looks like it.
Oh my gosh…this is what the doctor ordered. We had a meal, then took our adult beverages outside and drank them around the campfire. It was a good ending to a good day.

The 30% Club

You know how the Louve Museum in Paris is famous for the Mona Lisa? People arrive at the Museum and their only goal is to see the famous painting. Denali National Park is no different. People come here just to the the mountain, Denali. And only 30% of visitors have that privilege. That wasn’t our only goal. But we made sure we took the bus on a day when the weather would be cooperative.

If you refer the map of the park above, you can see how far we could drive our vehicle into the Park. To go any further, you have to pay to ride on a bus. This is the only way to see Denali from inside the Park.

All aboard! Yes, that’s a school bus.
We loaded onto the bus with our new friends. This was the “cheap” green bus ($35), not the “expensive” tan bus ($175). The expensive bus gives you a non-stop narration of what you are looking at and pulls over whenever a critter is sighted. The cheap bus takes you as far in as vehicles can go without the constant narration. However, if you spot an animal and give a shout, the bus driver is more than happy to pull over.

You have never seen so many cameras in one bus before. Some people had three or four cameras, all with long lenses. When an animal (mostly caribou) was spotted, the windows were opened and the camera lenses stuck out the windows.

And along the way, we did become members of the 30% Club. There she is, Denali. 20,000 feet high. Cross this off the bucket list.

Buses can only travel to mile 43. Why? There is a landslide ahead. In August of 2021, the road was closed due to the Pretty Rocks Landslide. If you want to read about it, use this link. The road, with a new bridge, is slated to reopen in 2027.

End of the bus line! Landslide ahead! There are lodges and cabins beyond the landslide that cater to tourists. To get to them now, you have to fly in….and it’s not cheap.

At this point, we could have gotten back on the bus and ridden it back to the start. But we opted exit the bus (we could take a later bus back) to hike the braided river bed of the Teklanika River. This is billed as a “off trail hike.” Janelle was all excited. There are not many National Parks where you can kike “off trail.”

Teklanika River
And down the steps we go to the river bed.

Janelle’s excellent eyes spotted these tracks in the mud. We took a picture (trekking pole for reference) and asked a Park Ranger what she thought the prints were. Caribou and Grizzly Bear were the answers.
From the river bed, we could see where they were staging materials for building the bridge over the landslide prone area. Janelle tried to hike within sight of the landslide, but it was too far away.
Critter sighting again. More caribou.
This is a Ptarmingan. She was building her nest on the side of the road.

It was great hiking the river bed. The number of types of stones in the river bed was incredible. That’s the power of a glacier, it brings down into the river whatever materials it encountered.

Another great day, but daylight was burning, it was time to head to our next destination, the coast and Seward.

Speaking of burning daylight, it is almost impossible to do so at this time of the year. We were referring to our weather apps on our phones to get the sunrise and sunset times. The Weather Channel app didn’t know how to deal with the fact that the sun set after midnight.

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